Chichester in 1837
CHICHESTER, an ancient walled city, the chief seat of a bishopric, to which it gives name, a parliamentary and municipal borough, and market-town, in the Rape of Chichester, western division of Sussex, 56 miles S.W. by S.from London, and about 6 miles from the sea-coast. It stands at the termination of a gentle descent from the South on a slight rising ground sloping in all directions, in a low country, which is part of the plain that extends from the west side of Brighton to Portsmouth harbour, between the South Downs and the sea, and attains at Chichester its greatest width.The city within the walls, which are well preserved, is divided by two principal streets, running north and south, and east and west, which intersect each other near the centre of the town ; in this respect resembling Chester, and preserving the form of a Roman encampment. Beyond the walls the suburbs are prolonged in the direction of the principal streets. A small rivulet, called the Lavant, which is generally dry in summer, bounds the city on the east and south sides. The city and suburbs stand in eight parishes, besides an ecclesiastical-precinct termed the Close, round the cathedral, and two extra-parochial pieces of land. The population of these in 1801 was 4,744 ; in 1811 - 6,425 ; in 1821 - 7,362 ; in 1831 - 8,270. The number of inhabited houses in 1831 was 1,514. These returns give 5.78 persons to a house in 1801, and 5.46 in 1831. There is no manufactory at present in Chichester. The cattle market, which is held every alternate Wednesday, is one of the largest in England held within the precincts of any town, and is always well supplied with cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs. There are several fairs in the town and the immediate vicinity at different stated times, but none are of great importance. Large quantities of corn are exported through the town for London and the west of England.
Chichester was undoubtedly a Roman station, probably Regnum. It is conjectured that Vespasian resided here, when in Britain, and that Claudius erected a temple in it, dedicated to Neptune and Minerva, of which an inscribed stone, dug up in 1731, is supposed to be a commemoration. The walls, which are nearly a mile and a half in circuit, were in all probability erected originally by the Romans. At the end of the principal streets there were formerly fortified gates, of which the eastern, the last standing (taken down in 1783), is said to have afforded decided proofs of Roman architecture. The present walls are supposed to have been re-constructed with the materials of the Roman walls, and a mound of earth (now planted in different parts with fine elm trees), which runs round the inside of the walls,is stated to be in the style in which the Romans constructed such works. But it is doubtful if there be any Roman remains now existing in the walls or buildings of the city.
The word Chichester is said to be a contraction of Cissan-caester, the city or castle of Cissa, an Anglo-Saxon chief, who, if credit can be given to the chronicles, repaired and partly rebuilt it, after it had been destroyed in a siege. At the Norman survey (Domesday Book) Chichester had only two hundred and thirty-eight houses, which were given to Roger de Montgomery, who was created the first earl of Chichester. This nobleman is believed to have been instrumental in procuring the removal of the seat of the bishopric of Sussex, or Selsea, from the peninsula of Selsea, where there was formerly a considerable town, to Chichester, which was one cause of the early prosperity of the place. The earliest charter extant is one by Stephen, confirming previously existing privileges and customs ; which were further confirmed and extended by numerous charters from different kings. It is included in the list of towns of the Staple in the 23rd year of the reign of Edward III, called Ordinatio Stapularum.
Under the Municipal Corporations' Bill, the city is divided into two wards, with six aldermen and eighteen councillors. It returned two members to parliament from an early date. By the Reform Act the boundary of the parliamentary borough was enlarged considerably round the city.
A cathedral, built mostly of wood, was founded here in 1108. The present cathedral, which was erected during the 13th century, exhibits some specimens of Norman design, and also some examples of the first pointed style, when Petworth or Sussex marble came into fashion. As a cathedral church it is of an inferior class, but the spire, which is about a century later in date than the body of the building, is finely proportioned. The cathedral is built in the usual form of a cross ; its extreme length from east to west is 407 feet ; from north to south, 150 feet ; the transept is 129 feet long, and 34 feet wide ; the nave and aisles 97 feet wide ; and the tower and spire 300 feet high. The north transept is now used as a parish church. In the interior there are nine monuments by Flaxman, one of them to the memory of William Collins, the poet, who was a native of Chichester. It also contains several ancient monuments, which are curious, and some of more recent date that are not unworthy of notice. The best of the latter is in the form of a statue to the memory of Mr. Huskisson, who was for some time member of parliament for this city. It is the work of Carew, and was raised by subscription. At a short distance from the north-west angle of the cathedral is an insulated bell-tower, traditionally known as Ryman's tower, which is noted for its massive walls. The palace of the bishop of Chichester, whose diocese comprehends nearly the entire county of Sussex, is within the city. There is a neat antique chapel attached to the palace, which has been repaired by the late bishop, Dr. Maltby. Chichester stood a siege during the civil wars.
The average, gross annual income of seven incumbents of the parishes of Chichester amounts to £664, but in six of the cases other preferment's are held.
The various schools, daily and Sunday, amounted in 1835 to 29 ; and to these has recently been added an infant school. The schools of a distinct public character are - one Bell's school, one Lancaster ditto, both very flourishing, and educating a great number of boys ; each of these has a girl's school belonging to it. The infant school is intended to accommodate about 250. A boarding-school was endowed in 1702 by Oliver Whitby, Esq., for 12 boys, but from an increase in its funds the number is now augmented to 28, who are boarded and educated. This school, which is under the direction of five trustees (who must be members of the church of England ; and "not parliament men"), is admirably managed ; and the boys in the increased number are not only well taught, but are clothed. Such boys as behave properly receive a sum of money on leaving the school, to enable them to settle in business, or otherwise to promote their interests. The boys wear the ancient blue dress of similar foundations. The revenue is about £1,300 per annum, and is yearly increasing. It is by the Foundation Charter restricted to members of the church of England. Another, termed a grammar-school, was founded in 1497 by bishop Story, the revenues of which are stated in the Education Returns to have been collusively administered. Scarcely any of the children of the citizens are educated at it, as it is exclusively a classical school. There is an ancient foundation for the support of old and infirm poor persons, called St. Mary's Hospital. Like so many of the, ancient charitable foundations, much too large a proportion of the funds of this hospital goes to the custos, or director, who is always one of the dignitaries of the cathedral, in the chapter of which lies the patronage of the charity.
The parochial churches in Chichester are remarkable for their smallness and the poverty of their appearance. During the present year, 1836, the largest parish (the Subdeanery) was divided, and a handsome Gothic church, capable of containing. a thousand persons, erected without the walls : this church, which is surrounded with an extensive cemetery, is named St. Paul's.
The chief public buildings of Chichester are the guild-hall, town or county-hall, council chamber, market-house, corn exchange, market cross, jail, theatre, infirmary, and the philosophical society's and mechanics' institutions. The town-hall is a rude inconvenient building, the remains of an ancient monastery of Grey Friars. The council chamber, which is the official quarters of the corporation, is small, and far from ornamental ; it is joined to an assembly room of large dimensions, in which most of the public meetings are held. The market-house is neat and commodious. The corn exchange is an elegant building, recently erected by subscription, and consisting of a splendid open show-room with stores for corn behind.The market cross, which stands at the intersection of the principal streets, is termed by Mr. Britton, 'the most enriched and beautiful example of this class of buildings in England.' Its farm is an octagon, having a large central column, from which spring numerous bold ribs, beneath a vaultd roof ; eight pier buttresses support the superincumbent panelled wall, parapet, pinnacles, and flying buttresses. These are three inscriptions on tablets, in niches, and clock-dials are inserted above them. The whole is surmounted by an open turret, of modern and inferior workmanship. The market-cross was erected by bishop Story wards the close of the fifteenth century ; his arms are impaled with those of the reigning monarch on shields attached to the buttresses. The jail is small and inconvenient. The theatre is neat but small.
The infirmary is a very elegant and beautiful building, situated on the northern slope outside the city, and surrounded with airing grounds for the patients. It was erected by subscription in 1826-7, and was opened for the reception of patients in October 1827. It owes its establishment to the exertions of Dr. Forbes. It is one of the best planned and best regulated establishments in the kingdom, although of small extent ; it contains about sixty beds, and is supported at an annual expense of about £1,400.
The literary and philosophical society, which was established in 1831, and is very flourishing, has elegant and extensive premises in the South Street, with reading and exhibition rooms, and museum, which already contains a fine collection of birds and minerals, and many other articles of interest and value. Lectures are delivered regularly every winter before the members, now consisting of about 150, who pay an annual subscription of one guinea.
The mechanics' institution was founded in 1829, and is also very flourishing ; its present members amount to 450. In 1836 an elegant building for the purposes of the society was erected by subscription at the South Gate. Lectures before the members are regularly delivered during the winter, and are very well attended. This institution has no museum, but has an extensive well-selected library.
In 1817 an Act was passed for making a canal from Chichester harbour to the city, a distance of about a mile and a half, which forms a branch of the Portsmouth and London canal, by the way of Arundel. There is a quay on the harbour, to which vessels of 150 to 180 tons can come up at high tides. The canal has not been very profitable, as the dues are stated to equal the land carriage from the quay. The following statement shows the number of vessels with the tonnage:
FOREIGN |
Years |
Ships inwards |
Tons inwards |
Ships outwards |
Tons outwards |
1830 |
6 |
410 |
3 |
120 |
1831 |
7 |
426 |
3 |
188 |
1832 |
3 |
300 |
2 |
113 |
COASTWISE |
Years |
Ships inwards |
Tons inwards |
Ships outwards |
Tons outwards |
1830 |
283 |
23,914 |
256 |
10,342 |
1831 |
398 |
25,730 |
288 |
12,555 |
1832 |
385 |
27,408 |
251 |
9,461 |
The gross receipt of Customs' revenue collected at Chichester in 1833 was £1,034 ; in 1834 - £1,529.
Chichester has a clean, neat, and comfortable appearance : the city is well built, lighted, watered, and drained ; the principal streets are spacious, and contain many large houses.
There are annual horse races in the neighbourhood, at Goodwood Park, the seat of the Duke of Richmond, which attract numerous visitors. |